The fashion industry’s path to sustainability is both complex and ongoing, as highlighted in the 2024 edition of The GFA Monitor, released on November 7.

Presented at the Global Fashion Summit: Shanghai Gala, the report offers a comprehensive overview of the industry’s progress, while also shedding light on the significant challenges that continue to hinder the creation of a truly sustainable and equitable fashion ecosystem.

While there have been some positive developments, such as an increase in sustainability targets and greater focus on fair wages, the report also reveals persistent hurdles that continue to stall the industry’s progress.

The report notes several areas of progress, such as nearly 30 per cent  of cotton being produced under sustainability programs in 2023, a 14 per cent rise in companies setting fair compensation and living wage targets through collective bargaining, and a general increase in awareness and action aligned with the Fashion CEO Agenda.

Despite these gains, the report highlights persistent challenges. Companies continue to face uncertainty about how to balance sustainability with economic and reporting demands.

Wage increases remain minimal, with only a 1per cent rise in the gap between minimum and living wages since 2023.

Moreover, while there has been an uptick in setting sustainability targets, particularly around water stewardship, fewer companies are actively working towards or measuring progress against these goals.

The insights are based on the Fashion Industry Target Consultation, a joint effort by GFA and the UN Environment Programme (UNEP), with contributions from 100 stakeholders worldwide.

This annual consultation evaluates industry sentiment on the key milestones required to create a truly net-positive fashion industry, focusing on 27 critical action areas.

Federica Marchionni, CEO, Global Fashion Agenda, says ‘The GFA Monitor 2024 reinforces COP29’s core themes: enhancing ambition and enabling tangible action. As climate threats, geopolitical challenges, and scepticism towards sustainability intensifies, the industry must rethink its strategies to adapt swiftly while nurturing long-term resilience. I urge leaders to utilise the practical steps, tools, programmes, and proven best practices outlined in this report and its previous edition to foster a sustainable, equitable, and transparent fashion ecosystem.’

Janet Mensink, Executive Director, Social & Labor Convergence Program, says: ‘2023 SLCP assessments showed a 5% increase in social and labour legal non-compliances, demonstrating the importance of keeping Respectful and Secure Work Environments high on the agenda.’

Tiffany Rogers, Director of Innovation and Development, Manufacturing, Fair Labor Association, says ‘Working together, we can and will end poverty-level wages for garment workers. Establishing industry targets for 2035 is a step forward; now we must prioritise measuring progress toward living wages.’

Lewis Perkins, President, Apparel Impact Institute, says ‘With 2030 approaching, the industry must swiftly deploy decarbonisation programs, tools, and equipment, ensuring measurable, verified year-over-year carbon reductions across the value chain to meet targets.’

Jules Lennon, Fashion Lead, Ellen MacArthur Foundation, says ‘To create a thriving fashion industry we need to fundamentally transform the way we design, make, and ultimately enjoy our clothes. In order to truly challenge conventional linear models at scale – and for a circular economy for fashion to become the norm – we must accelerate efforts that not only redesign the products of the future, but also the services and business models that deliver them and keep them in use.’

Sarah Needham, Textile Exchange, Senior Director of Engagement and Partnerships, says ‘We are committed to driving materials transformation at tier four. Scaling of preferred production systems such as textile-to-textile recycling, regenerative agriculture, and investing in equitable partnerships are essential to achieving climate and nature targets and building resilient systems that respect resources and people.’