A sharp conflict has erupted between the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) and the RMG Sustainability Council (RSC) over who should handle labour-rights complaints in the country’s readymade garment (RMG) sector.

The BGMEA on Sunday directed its member factories not to cooperate with a newly proposed complaints mechanism that the RSC plans to introduce from November 16, warning that the initiative exceeds the council’s authorised role.

The RSC, in contrast, has notified factories that it will begin implementing an expanded complaints system from 16 November, covering wages, employment terms, leave, discrimination and other workplace-rights issues.

The sharply contrasting positions have brought the two key industry bodies into conflict at a time when global buyers and unions have been calling for broader oversight of labour conditions.

In a circular issued to its members, the BGMEA said it had learned that the RSC’s Managing Director had recently circulated a letter to garment factories introducing a complaints procedure unrelated to OSH.

The association urged all factories not to respond to any communications from the RSC regarding the new mechanism while the matter remains under review.

‘We kindly request all member factories not to respond to any communications, letters, or circulars from the RSC related to the non-OSH complaints mechanism,’ the circular stated.

It said that BGMEA leadership is in discussion with the RSC to clarify the organisation’s position and will provide a final directive after the next RSC board meeting.

The BGMEA said the instruction was necessary to ensure a coordinated approach in line with its policies, emphasising that any system affecting factory operations must be developed through proper consultation with industry stakeholders.

The RSC’s letter to factories, issued earlier, outlined plans for a two-phase rollout of an expanded Comprehensive Complaints Mechanism (CCM).

The mechanism, which previously handled only OSH-related concerns, will now cover a broad range of workplace-rights issues including unfair employment contracts, separations, wages, benefits, leave, freedom of association, collective bargaining, child labour, forced labour and discrimination.

The first phase, lasting six months from November 16, will involve 58 global brands and 1,185 factories. A second phase will later bring the remaining listed factories under the system.

The RSC—established in 2020 as the successor to the Accord on Fire and Building Safety—was originally tasked with monitoring structural, fire and electrical safety across the RMG industry.

The Accord itself was created after the Rana Plaza collapse in 2013 to address critical safety gaps.

The RSC’s governing board includes equal representation from international brands, global and national trade unions, and local industry groups.

RSC Managing Director Abdul Haque said the decision to expand the mechanism was approved at the 20 October board meeting, describing it as a step towards addressing more comprehensive workplace concerns.

He said the expansion follows a successful pilot on non-OSH complaints and was endorsed by the board’s tripartite structure.

However, several industry leaders dispute this claim.

BKMEA President and RSC board member Mohammad Hatem said he was present during the board meeting for several hours and that no such agreement was reached while he was there.

He argued that issues such as wages and trade-union matters fall outside the RSC’s jurisdiction and should not be incorporated without the industry’s consent.

‘RSC’s jurisdiction does not cover non-OSH related issues and they won’t be allowed to do the same,’ he said.

Industry representatives also warned of added financial and administrative burdens if the RSC expands its monitoring role.

They argued that factories are already struggling due to low purchase prices offered by global buyers, making it difficult to absorb any additional compliance costs.

‘The industry cannot bear extra costs for new personnel when buyers are not paying fair prices,’ one leader said.