Bangladesh ambassador to France, Khondker M Talha on Monday called for closer collaboration between enforcement authorities in global markets and garment supplier countries to combat unfair purchasing practices.

Speaking at a virtual side session during the 2025 OECD Forum on ‘Due Diligence in the Garment and Footwear Sectors’ on Monday, he advocated for joint inspections, data sharing agreements, and international grievance mechanisms.

‘For instance, short-term planning, delayed payments, and last-minute order cancellations by buyers disproportionately affect suppliers and workers,’ the ambassador said.

He urged regulators to mandate equitable cost-sharing mechanisms and enforce fair payment terms to ensure that the financial burden of compliance is not borne solely by suppliers.

The session was organised by the Bangladesh Embassy in Paris in collaboration with the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA).

Moderated by Olivia Windham Stewart, an independent business and human rights specialist, the session focused on aligning Bangladesh’s RMG industry with the “Three Zeros” framework—Zero Poverty, Zero Unemployment, and Zero Net Carbon Emissions—proposed by Nobel Laureate Professor Muhammad Yunus.

This transformative framework aims to drive inclusive growth, environmental sustainability, and ethical practices in the garment sector, which contributes over 80 per cent of Bangladesh’s total exports and employs more than four million workers, predominantly women.

While significant progress has been made, gaps and inconsistencies in current regulations remain a challenge, Talha said, adding that, for instance, the lack of harmonised global standards often leads to conflicting compliance requirements, increasing the burden on suppliers.

Furthermore, the absence of enforceable mechanisms to ensure fair pricing and payment terms undermines the sustainability of the supply chain.

To address these gaps, he recommended harmonized global regulations that mandate responsible purchasing practices and ensure shared accountability between buyers and suppliers.

Other suggestions included technical and financial support from international partners to help suppliers meet compliance requirements, particularly small and medium enterprises (SMEs) and enhanced data transparency to monitor purchasing practices and ensure that buyers adhere to fair pricing and payment terms.

Highlighting Bangladesh’s remarkable progress in improving workplace safety, labor rights, and environmental standards since the Rana Plaza tragedy in 2013 he emphasized the government’s commitment to integrating the ‘Three Zeros’ framework into national policies, including labor law reforms, green factory initiatives, and sustainable export strategies.

He also underscored the importance of fair pricing and ethical purchasing practices by global brands to ensure the sustainability of the RMG sector.

He urged the OECD and international partners to provide technical and financial assistance to support capacity building, data transparency, and worker empowerment programmes, fostering a fair and inclusive global supply chain that upholds human rights, promotes sustainability, and ensures equitable benefits for all stakeholders.

Speaking there over how to tackle the fundamental challenges in Bangladesh in a fair and equitable way, BGMEA representative Miran Ali said ‘We must ensure that the flow of business to Bangladesh does not come at the expense of our resources unless our workers receive a better deal and there is social justice. At the same time, social justice must align with responsible production. That is the balance we must strike.’

‘Locally, we need to set certain minimum standards for doing business with Bangladesh,’ he said adding they would ensure that anyone who does business with them upholds these standards.

He, however, said they face a paradox adding if they work at a higher standard than Myanmar, Vietnam, or Sri Lanka, it could erode their economic competitiveness.

Sharing insights from the perspective of global brands, Bismuth Sebastien, Chairman of Celio, France, said his company has been present in Bangladesh for more than 20 years, operating with a social and sourcing office that employs over 45 people.

He emphasised the importance of supplier partnerships in achieving sustainability goals and commended Bangladesh’s efforts in green manufacturing and labor rights reforms.

He also stressed the need for harmonized global regulations to ensure fair practices across the supply chain.

ILO Bangladesh Country Director Tuomo Poutiainen highlighted the ILO’s initiatives to support sustainability and worker rights in Bangladesh.

He praised the government’s efforts in labor law reform and trade union registration, while calling for continued collaboration to address challenges such as anti-union discrimination and unfair labor practices.

‘In Bangladesh, the ILO is actively engaged in supporting labor reforms, which are critical for transformation. These reforms include changes to labor laws, wage-setting systems, and the establishment of modern labor courts,’ he said.

The garment industry, along with the footwear sector, has made significant progress in maintaining industrial safety through organisations like Better Work, the RMG Sustainability Council, and Nirapon, he said, adding that these legacy organisations are vital for sustaining progress and building trust with international buyers and stakeholders.